Is my hair addicted to dandruff shampoos?

Dear Flakey in Virginia, 

Dandruff can be a real head-scratcher and many people dealing with dandruff are eager to get rid of it. The good news is that using an anti-dandruff shampoo doesn’t cause your hair to become addicted to it. This is a common myth, but it’s flake news! Anti-dandruff shampoos treat dandruff, but they don’t cure it—unfortunately there is no permanent cure for dandruff—so when you stop using your anti-dandruff shampoo, your dandruff may come back. If you want to know more about treating dandruff, keep reading! 

What is dandruff? 

Dandruff is a scalp condition characterized by dry skin flakes that form on your scalp. People with dandruff often describe their scalps as feeling itchy or oily. Dandruff isn’t usually related to a health issue. In fact, it’s quite common—around half of all adults will deal with dandruff at some point in their lives. Still, many people are bothered by the itchiness or may feel self-conscious. Luckily, most cases of dandruff are easily treatable. 

How can you treat dandruff?  

A common treatment for dandruff is anti-dandruff shampoo. Although research into causes of dandruff is still ongoing, it’s been noted that most cases of dandruff are associated with a yeast species called Malassezia. This yeast naturally lives on your scalp. If you have a higher amount of Malassezia on your scalp, it can cause irritation that leads to flaking of dead skin. Anti-dandruff shampoos contain components that fight against this yeast and reduce the flaking it causes. There are several anti-dandruff shampoos available over the counter (OTC). There are also stronger alternatives that can be prescribed for people with persistent dandruff. Active ingredients in anti-dandruff shampoos include: 

• Zinc pyrithione 
• Coal tar 
• Salicylic acid 
• Selenium sulfide 
• Ketoconazole  

List adapted from the American Academy of Dermatology 

How do you use anti-dandruff shampoo? 

How you use your anti-dandruff shampoo can depend on which active ingredient it contains, so it’s advised to follow the specific instructions that come with the shampoo. Generally, it’s recommended to apply the anti-dandruff shampoo to your scalp (rather than all over your hair) and let it sit there for five to ten minutes before rinsing it off in the shower. How often you use your anti-dandruff shampoo may also vary based on your hair type and how often you use a standard shampoo to wash your hair. For example, if frequently washing your hair with a standard shampoo is best for your hair type, you might try using the anti-dandruff shampoo twice a week in addition to your normal shampoo. If your hair type doesn’t require using a standard shampoo as often, you could try applying the anti-dandruff shampoo once a week. 

Can you become addicted to dandruff treatments?  

Your hair and scalp don’t become dependent on anti-dandruff shampoo when you use the product. Instead, when you stop using the anti-dandruff shampoo, you stop treating your dandruff by no longer fighting the cause of it. This allows dandruff to come back, and you may begin noticing flakes on your scalp again. Although anti-dandruff shampoos are usually effective, they must be used continuously for people with active dandruff. So, if you stop using an anti-dandruff shampoo, expect that your dandruff may return after a few days. 

Are there any other considerations for treating dandruff? 

The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) sets safety regulations for both OTC and prescription anti-dandruff shampoos. This means that using anti-dandruff shampoos hasn’t been found to be dangerous to your health. That said, some people experience unintended effects when using certain anti-dandruff shampoos. These can include: 

• Skin irritation: When using an anti-dandruff shampoo, it’s best to focus the shampoo on your scalp and to keep it away from your eyes, nose, and mouth in case the shampoo irritates your skin. 
• Scalp or hair dryness: Some people who start using an anti-dandruff shampoo switch to more moisturizing standard shampoos or introduce other moisturizing hair products because they find that anti-dandruff shampoos dry out their hair or scalp. 
• Sunburns: Using anti-dandruff shampoo can increase the chance of sunburn on your scalp. Sunburns can lead to more flaking of skin, as well as increasing your risk of skin cancer. If you have no hair or thin or thinning hair and you’re using an anti-dandruff shampoo, you might consider using a sun protection product on your scalp (such as a sunscreen spray) or wearing a hat when you’re going to be in the sun. 

Ultimately, these effects depend on which active ingredient is in your anti-dandruff shampoo. If you’re stopping your dandruff treatment because you’re unhappy with your current options, it could be useful to explore shampoos with other active ingredients. You might also find it helpful to discuss prescription treatment options with a dermatologist. 

Anyway, enough blathering; feel free to keep on lathering!